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How to Make Home Brew Instructions

Taking the time to learn how to make your own beer at home is a wonderful.

Joining the homw brew beer community gives you the opportunity to make new friends as well as see yourself becoming more popular amongst your old friends. It should also instill in you a new sense of pride and purpose and it will do wonders for your self-confidence as well, and also improve the quality of your life.

Only after you master the how to make home brew instructions you can rightly call yourself a brew master. Brewing homemade beer can be fun to do and all you need to do is to follow exactly the how to make home brew instructions and you will find yourself embroiled in a new activity that will soon get you hooked on it.

Here is a quick run down of the brewing process:

Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars. The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning. The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation. The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol. When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.

My Favorite How To Make Home Brew Instructions Links:

I have my own how to make home brew instructions but I am not going to share them with you. But I have included same simple instructions below. Part of the fun of making your own home brew beer is in the learning and discovery. Here are some very good links for how to make home brew instructions.

How To Brew

Home Brew Instructions

U2 Can Brew


You Can Even Call Yourself a Brewmaster only after you make some good beer.


Any good how to make home brew instructions will almost always emphasize that the best and perhaps only way to make wonderful beer is to keep everything clean. That means that anything and everything that touches your brewed beer should be clean and you would be well advised to use a sanitizer such as Star San or something similar to get the best out of your brewing process.

The real secret to making GREAT beer is sanitation! It is absolutely necessary to sanitize everything, that touches your brew. It is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to keep everything, that touches your brew, CLEAN!!! You need to have as "germ" free environment for your brew as possible and practical. No contamination whatsoever. The most common ways to sanitize are Chlorine (household bleach): Boiling, Iodophor, and Star San

Now that everything is clean don't ruin you efforts by drying off your equipment with some dirty towel. Sanitize your work area and let your equipment air dry(or use it wet). Keep dogs, cats, kids, canaries, and other annoyances out. Keep the windows closed, because a lot of bad beer bugs are airborne.

Choosing Your Supplies

This step includes selecting water, malt, hops as well as yeast. To begin with water first, you need to understand that charcoal filtered water is what you should aim to use, and if you are using city water, then you must boil it so that it is free of chlorine. You can avoid distilled water and opt for anything that tastes good since water will affect how your beer is going to taste finally.

The next thing you will learn from the how to make home brew instructions is to use malt which is a grain that should have its starch transformed into sugar, and the best thing to use is malt extract which is the sugar from the malt that is mostly available in syrup or dried powder form.

You should now follow the how to make home brew instructions and take the next step which concerns hops which is the flower that provides bitterness, and adds flavor as well as aroma to the beer. How much bitterness you desire on having depends on which the type of hop is as well as how long you boil the hops. As soon as the boil is nearing its end you can add hops in order to get the flavor and for some aroma you may either add hops at the later stages of fermentation and prior to bottling, or use dry hopping.

Choosing The Yeast

Yeast that causes sugars to transform into alcohol as well as carbon dioxide gas with the whole process being known as fermentation. You can also choose between ale and lager yeast.


The last bit of information that you will glean from the how to make home brew instructions is concerning the use of aluminum. Do not use aluminum for beer making period.

How To Make Home Brew Beer Instructions.

The Laws

There are various laws regulating homemade beer production. An adult can make 100 gal. (200 per household) a year under federal law. I used to register as a wine producer with the Dept. of Firearms, Tobacco, & Alcohol, but I don't bother anymore, the law may not even require that any more. N. C. State law is fuzzy (says you must use native N. C. fruits). In any case, if you keep it at home, don't sell it, and don't give it away to narcs (alchs?, revenuers), you should not get in any trouble. By the way, soft drinks can still legally contain 0.5 % alcohol, because that is the amount produced during a natural carbonation fermentation, as used to be done by the industry.

Let’s Get Started

Find a 3 gallon container in which to conduct the primary fermentation. It should be constructed of a material that will not leech out toxic chemicals in the presence of alcohol. (no aluminum) It should have a lid to keep bugs from getting in but which will allow carbon dioxide gas to escape. I like to use a plastic garbage can with a faucet at the bottom and a lid with an airlock at the top (available from beer supply stores).

Pour in about 1.5 lb of hop-flavored malt extract (most economically obtained at grocery stores). For stronger beer, add about 6 cups of sugar. Optionally, add about 2 tsp of fruit acid (if you are making a low alcohol beer, the acid helps retard spoilage - which should not be necessary if you drink it all up as fast as I do). Any fruit acid will do; I have used citric, which is cheap. Lemon juice could be used. Do not use ascorbic acid, it will retard the fermentation. A tsp of di-ammonium-phosphate (yeast nutrient, fertilizer) will speed the fermentation, especially in high-alcohol beers, but is not necessary.

Now it time to add water, 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit, up to a few inches below the top of your container. Do not fill it too full, or the fermenting mess will come out. Stir it all up thoroughly. If you have a beer hydrometer, (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) check the specific gravity. It should be about 1.06, corrected for temperature. I suggest you buy a floating thermometer so you can correct for temperature. A beer hydrometer will also tell you what the alcohol content will be in the finished brew. The more sugar, the denser the liquid will be now (higher specific gravity) and the more alcohol the yeast will make. Six cups of sugar will give you about 7% alcohol (most commercial beer in the US is about 3.5%). Do not go above 9 or 10%, or you will kill the yeast and end up with a sweet, un-carbonated beverage. Also, do not drink 7% beer like 3.5% beer and don't drive after drinking a pint or more! If using a hydrometer, it is best to start out with less sugar than you think you will need and then adjust the specific gravity by adding more.

Next up you are ready to add the yeast. I use dry yeast, available in bee rmaking supply stores. You could use bread yeast, but I don't recommend it. It gives the beer a yeasty taste and does not stand up to high alcohol contents. If you can't wait to get beer yeast, wild yeast (bound to be there unless you used sterilized ingredients) may do for low alcohol beer. If you have already made beer before, the sediment from the bottom of a freshly opened bottle contains enough yeast to start your new batch. Add the yeast, put the top on the container, place in a warm place (70-90 degrees F), and wait a week or two.

If you have a hydrometer, you may want to monitor the specific gravity. When it drops to 1.005, it is ready to bottle. I let the beer go to draught, when the fermentation (bubbling) stops entirely - no sugar left. At that point, the specific gravity will be a bit below 1.000 (alcohol being less dense than water). I "rack" the beer at this point, that is, siphon (or use faucet) it off of the inch or so of yuck at the bottom of the container. I rack it into a second 3 gallon container with faucet. At this point, you need to add more sugar for the secondary fermentation, which carbonates the beer (and raises the alcohol content yet more). I use about 10 tbsp sugar. Start with less and check the gravity. You want the gravity to be 1.005. Be sure to correct the gravity for temperature (instructions are included with the hydrometer they will tell you how). DO NOT allow the gravity to exceed 1.005! If there is too much sugar, your bottled beer will EXPLODE, which could be FATAL (I'm not kidding - I've seen exploding bottles drive pieces of glass through wooden cabinets!). Now, bottle the beer (use siphon or faucet). Do not use disposable bottles, they can't stand the pressure and are dangerous. I use one pint returnable soft drink bottles which I collected while they were still in common use. You can buy similar bottles from stores that sell beer making supplies.

You need bottle caps and a capper. Alternatively, use the European beer bottles which have reusable caps and don't require a capper. Keep the beer at 70-90 degrees F. in a safe place for a week or so. Then put one bottle in the refrigerator. When cold, give it a try to see if it is adequately carbonated yet. If not, let the rest of the beer ferment in the bottles a few days longer. It yes, move it all into the refrigerator (I got a second refrigerator to hold all of my beer).

When you pour the beer out of the bottle (don't drink from the bottle), do it in one continuous movement. Watch the crud (spent yeast, cream of tartar) at the bottom of the bottle and stop pouring before it comes out. While there are lots of B vitamins in this crud, it looks nasty, does not taste good, and is a mild laxative (generates flatus too). This crud is not in commercial US beer because they artificially carbonate their beer. They also add all sorts of chemicals - detergent to make a head, for example.

Keep your bottles, containers, etc. absolutely clean to avoid microorganisms that cause spoilage (you don't want 3 gal. of malt vinegar, do you?). Some folks routinely sterilize equipment with boiling water or chemicals, but I find that unnecessary except after having had a spoilage problem.




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